Hanoi’s three generations of bun rieu drawing regular customers

Starting as a street vendor, Ba Thiep eatery, known for its traditional crab noodle soup, has been delighting customers for over three generations.

Situated at 22 Hong Phuc Street in Ba Dinh District, Ba Thiep's bun rieu (crab noodle soup) eatery is among the oldest eateries in Hanoi. Over the past 23 years, this place has become a beloved destination for fans of this noodle soup.

While Thiep has passed on the craft to her descendants, she continues to assist with the preparations and daily sales.

At the age of 66, Nguyen Thi Thiep (L) shares that her family has been in the business for three generations, dating back approximately 50 years. In 2000, she opened her own establishment.

At the beginning, the noodle shop was a humble street-side eatery. Many locals in Hong Phuc Alley are familiar with the image of the ever-smiling owner skillfully preparing the food, accompanied by the slurping sounds. Today, diners can savor the dish in a proper setting indoors.

The preparations start as early as 4 a.m. All the ingredients, from crab paste to beef, snails, and pork rolls, are sourced from reputable suppliers with clear origins.

The snails, for instance, are fresh to ensure a crunchy and aromatic experience. Both large and small snails are meticulously processed and soaked in saltwater to eliminate any odors. The tofu are deep fried, boasting a crispy exterior while remaining soft inside.

The stall, positioned at the entrance, displays a pot of hot broth emitting an enticing aroma, along with the vibrant colors of crab paste and tomatoes. Adjacent to it is a small cabinet showcasing pre-prepared ingredients like snails, beef, and crab paste.

When a customer places an order, Thiep's daughter-in-law Loan assembles the bowl with vermicelli, fresh herbs, and accompanying toppings, all briefly blanched in hot broth.

The clear broth, a blend of crabs, vinegar, and tomatoes, delivers a sweet and sour flavor profile.

A serving of vermicelli ranges VND35,000-50,000 ($1.50-2.15) depending on the toppings. Payment options include cash or transfers via QR code scanning.

Each bowl is filled with generous toppings, catering to hearty appetites. Toppings are varied, including crab paste, tofu, pork rolls and snails.

Diners can choose a portion with full toppings, or create their own customized bowl. For added richness, diners can opt to include shrimp paste according to their taste preferences.

Operating from 5:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. daily, the shop experiences its peak rush during lunch hours, attracting a diverse mix of loyal patrons and occasional diners. The narrow space can accommodate only two rows of tables, making it essential to arrive early to secure a seat during busy periods.

"When it comes to bun rieu, I always head to number 22 Hong Phuc, despite the various options available. The quality, quantity, and taste simply cannot be beaten for the price," shared Do Van Cuong from Hanoi.

Nguyen Trong Tan, another Hanoi resident, has been dining at Ba Thiep eatery for nearly two decades. "The reasonably priced noodle soup keeps me coming back."